Lineart by QuakerNinja
QuakerNinja

Lineart

by QuakerNinja in Tutorials

I wasn't going to post this because it's confusing. Believe it or not. What you see in the movie and what you see here is the same thing.
The top one is just what you see in the movie reflected and moved at an angle copied and trimmed a few times.



Just a variation of the Same stuff you've seen in the wolf tutorial and the pattern tutorial.
The trick is to switch your brain from drawing something Observation and perception part (look at it and copy as best your skills will allow, and alter it as best your style will allow) to building something. The How does this work puzzle problem solving part. Connecting pieces, making shapes ect. I can't tell you how to make this work for you. It's your brain. But if you've ever had that gut feeling, or felt like you are drawing on auto pilot we all have this in us. Thats your brain recognizing patterns and telling you "Hay I know what that is, or These go together duh" and so on. Trying to get 3d real world stuff to work on 2d paper is a total brain teaser. I think this is why a lot of noobs have a hard time getting started. Where do you start when nothing makes sense. You need your whole brain to make something. So think or swim.

Basic process.
Step one: Draw something. I usually do faces because they are symmetrical and I know the rough proportions already. The width of the eye measuring from corner to corner is the standard measurement for faces. There is one eye width between eyes, one eye width for the nose, and one eye width for the lips. Since I am drawing half the face and a half nose and lip is pretty tiny I usually exaggerate those features.

I use the graphic style live reflect X in the additive library pre sets found in the lower left corner flyout menu of the graphic styles panel in Illustrator Cs 4, or 5. Not sure if Cs3 had it. Haven't opened that version up in a while. If you don't have it you will just have to do the work around. Reflect a copy and line it up every so often to check how things are going.

for the effect to work. All the lines have to be gapless (just an art dork word for connected together) There are workarounds for this, but just my preference.
I am using the blob brush tool size 3pt, and 10pt with the pressure turned on.
Double click the blob brush icon in the toolbar to bring up brush size changing and pressure options.

Step 2. round out the corners.
This is just a shortcut to help with line weight.
Line weight is used to help give focus, separation, and direction to the line work. If everything is the same your brain won't be able to tell the important stuff from the not important stuff and it will make the image appear flat. Smooth lines like there aren't necessary, just my preference.
This works like a cookie cutter and a slab of dough.
The cookie cutter part. Pathfinder panel, Merge button.
The dough part. Just a rectangle placed behind the line work.
select both and merge them then ungroup. You will be left with a bunch of cut up shapes.

Step 3. Make the corners black.
Lock the black line work. Then hold shift as you select cutout objects you want to change. Then change there color to black. If the color of the object (the cut part and the line work are the same they will be joined, if the color is different it will be cut out. Got it.
I use

Step 4. Clean up the line work.
The step 3 is just a shortcut to keep you from having to do tight tiny fill strokes in every corner. That can get quite tedious. It's a nice shortcut but it's not perfect. Just look for messy areas and brush them all pretty. No tricks here just good eyes and steady hands.

at this point I would call it done. or go into each segment and fill them with detail work. subdivide and smooth them out as many times as needed.

Step 4. Gray scale.
Use the cookie cutter trick again. This time instead of black we are trying to get a nice balance of value. You can skip to color from here if you like. It's just my preference. The work I do is for screen printing. Screen prints are stencils. One screen for each color, and most shops don't have the equipment that can handle a large number of screens. I aim for 4. Black, base gray, light gray (for highlights) and dark gray (for shadows) That should be all I need. Keeps the jobs cheaper for whoever has to pay the printing bill.

Step 5. Color. There is a color wheel button called recolor artwork I think.
on the top toolbar. Click that and you will get a big confusing looking dialoge box. You can check youtube, or adobe.tv for good tutorials on how that all works.

Hope this helps some people out. I really sucked at illustrator when I first started just don't get discouraged just keep practicing.

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